kyoto in the rain, take two

After a few days in Tokyo, we hopped aboard a shinkansen (bullet train) and headed to Kyoto.  Those of you who, like our Vice President, have only enjoyed the pleasure of an Amtrak train should take note, a shinkansen is a step above.  Nicer than your average late model airplane and complete with reclining seats, western toilets, and flight attendants, the shinkansen gets you to a destination across Japan faster and in comfort and style.  Needless to say, I was excited for the trip, in spite of the early boarding time. 

When we got to Kyoto it was raining so we dropped our luggage off at the ryokan and went right to lunch at the original Tenka Ippin, a Japan-famous ramen restaurant.  As usual, Jeff and I ordered ours niku nuki, without meat, and I got the small size.  This in no way means I had a healthy lunch.

Two things: 
1. I eat way too much ramen.  Arguably, any ramen is too much ramen because it is NOT good for you.   
2. I can justify eating way too much ramen while I am living here, knowing that I won't be able to get it in America.  It is near impossible to find "good" ramen in America.  In fact, we don't know of any.  

Tenka Ippin did live up to its reputation, by the way.  Yum. 

Because it was such a gross day, we decided to explore the Nishiki Market in central Kyoto.  It is a thoroughly modern arcade-style market filled with everything from ABC mart, the ever-present shoe store, to small stalls selling exotic ingredients for a traditional Japanese dinner, to a 400 year old family business selling very cool looking, and very expensive, knives. 

It was a rainy day, and every tourist in Kyoto had the same idea as us.  The Nishiki Market was packed.

Many people are surprised to see temples scattered about a modern-looking city, and mixed in with the clothing and souvenir stores throughout the market are several examples of century-old temples and shrines. 

After we'd had enough wandering around we sought out another of my mother's must-dos in Japan: shabu shabu and sukiyaki.  These are both distinctly Japanese methods of cooking very thinly sliced meat, and this restaurant happened to provide a split pot for enjoying both of them.  The fancy set-up:

 It's a Japanese style private room where you sit on the floor at a hori-kotatsu (a kotatsu, in this case, with your feet tucked in a recessed hole under the table).  

They're excited.  My dad because of the amount of meat on the table (it's bottomless as well) and my mom because she's apparently been hearing about this from her friend Cindi since she booked the tickets.
For the record, shabu shabu is swished through a boiling broth (yes, that is the best word for it - shabu shabu is the onomatopoeia for the swishing motion) of vegetables and tofu.  Sukiyaki is grilled/sauteed in a shallow dark broth with onions and a weird tofu (and potentially other vegetables, but we can't remember).

After dinner, we were feeling a little tired from the travel and a little soggy from the rainy weather so we went back to the ryokan to hang out.  We were in Kyoto during sakura season and reasonably priced accommodations meant that we were a little cramped for the first night. 

Those are the futons for all four of us.  Good thing we're family. 

More of Kyoto to come...

Mata ne,
Melissa

Onsen Adventure

We got home late yesterday from our first venture outside the city of Tokyo.  We went to the Kinugawa onsen area, which is known for it's hot springs baths.  On our way we stopped in this little town for lunch and were amazed to find a vegan organic lunch place. 

On the left is the set meal: miso soup, a rice and beans thing, a squash and zucchini thing, and a root vegetable thing (purple looking stuff in the dish). Oishii!

On the right is Jeff demonstrating his expert chopstick skills.



Of course when saw they had oatmeal cookies we had to grab one to enjoy on the train!





When we got to Kinugawa, we went to our hotel/spa to check in and begin the relaxation.  I'm pretty sure there was only one other room in the hotel booked because all the staff was VERY hospitable and attentive.  One of the desk people led us to our room.  A little bit different than a western-style hotel room, huh?  

First we went to the "public bath" which isn't exactly public since you have to be a guest at the hotel to use it.  It's really like an open room with a hot tub and little stations where you sit and shower.  For those to whom a communal shower doesn't sound appealing, I was pleased to discover that the bath was empty.  Since there was no one else there, I was able to snap a few pictures:

It's a bit steamy in there! The left is the really really hot hot tub and the right is the little station with stool and bucket where one washes ones.  There is a hose with showerhead attached for those of us more accustomed to such things.

After washing up it was time for dinner.  In ryokan hotels you often find dinner and breakfast included in the price and served right in your room.  Not wanting to miss out on the local customs, Jeff and I were excited to see what this would include.  First we got dressed up in the kimono supplied in our room

 and poured ourselves a glass of wine/beer.

Then two very nice ladies that were very impressed with Jeff's Japanese skills came in and started filling our table with plate after plate of traditional Japanese foods.  It was quite the spread!

When dinner was all finished, the ladies came in and cleaned up after us (quite a chore as I had struggled a bit with the crab and sent pieces flying about the room!) and then two men came and got out the futons and made our beds while we ate dessert.  A girl could get used to this kind of treatment!
 My germaphobic friends will be pleased to hear that the cover the duvet with what looks like a fitted sheet so that no part of the duvet actually touches your skin - very important.  I watched those 20/20 exposés!

After dinner it was time for the ultimate relazation in our own private hot tub with a view overlooking the city. mmmmm I'm warm and cozy just thinking about it.

The next morning we were woken up bright and early by the same men who came to take away the futon beds.  After that we were treated to a traditional Japanese breakfast, complete with rice, soup and grilled fish! 

Not exactly the way I'm used to starting my day, but it sure did fill me up - for the next part of our adventure (coming soon).  Until then...

Mata ne,
Melissa