aaaand we're back

It has been some time since my last post, I realize.  Rather than explaining my absence, an observation:

In Tokyo, there are bathhouses all around the city, sort of like mini-onsen, where people congregate to bathe and soak in the hot tubs, usually in the evening.  When I say people I mean older people, generally.  At onsen, you're likely to see bathers of all ages, but at neighborhood bathhouses, in my limited experience, one is unlikely to see anyone under the age of 35.  Also, no tattoos, but that is a whole other story.

Now, in addition to bathhouses, which generally run you between 400 and 600 yen, there are also coin showers located in various places around the city, which are presumably cheaper.  Unlike the bathhouse, they are no frills affairs.  I really have a hard time figuring out the coin shower thing, and ask Jeff frequently when passing "who uses those things?!"  

Having never seen the actual showers themselves, I was curious tonight when I walked by the cluster on our street this evening and some of the doors were wide open, so I popped my head in one.  Eeew.  "Reallly, WHO uses those things?!"  

From what I understand, resulting from the bathhouse culture that still exists to some extent in Japan, there are apartments that simply do not have a shower.  People who live in them must go to the bathhouse or (if they are cheap and not weary of foot fungus) the coin showers to bathe.  Maybe it's my western prejudice, but (with the exception of while camping in state parks and with the protection of rubber flip flops) I could never bring myself to a) live in an apartment without a shower or b) use the skeevy coin showers on the street corner.  

An actual post about what we've been up to in the last month to come. Soon.

Hakone Ahoy!

The last big adventure we had with Jeff's brother and sister, Michael and Sara, was a trip out of Tokyo to Hakone, a town known for it's beautiful landscape and onsen.  We got up bright and early to get on the train for our almost 2 hour trip out there so we could have a full day to enjoy ourselves and take in the sights.  By far the best deal is to get the Hakone Free Pass in Shinjuku (good for two days even though we only used it for one) which includes transportation to the area, several unusual forms of transportation within the area, and discounts on attractions within Hakone for 5000 yen.

We took the regular Odakyu commuter train for the long trip out to Odawara in the morning.  My three companions slept the entire way - essentially from the moment the train started moving until the moment I informed then our stop was coming up.  This was no comfy express train either.  It was the bare bones, florescent lighting, sideways facing bench, commuter train.  They must be heavy sleepers in that family.  By the time we got to Hakone they were well rested and ready for adventure.  I immediately got myself a coffee. 

Being somewhat close to Tokyo, Hakone is quite a popular tourist spot, and apparently there is a set route which people often take which maximizes the fun stuff they can do. Trendsetters that we are, we decided not to follow this route.  Instead we got on a bus (which was free thanks to the Free Pass!) for a roller-coaster ride to our first stop.

Now I enjoy roller-coasters, and have been known to drag people around for entire days begging them "just once more!" but this 40 minute ride was a bit much even for me.  I'd liken it to being driven around the Bershires, with steep grades and hairpin turns galore, by a fourteen year old who thinks he's playing Mario Cart for Wii.  Our bus driver was apparently unaware that there is something in between speedy acceleration and slamming on the break.  We fortunately made it safely to our next mode of transportation/adventure.

A freaking pirate ship!

(Hey, move lady, you're messing up my picture!)

I am not sure who decided that a pirate ship was just what this small, inland lake in Japan needed, but they are probably related to the person who thought it would be fun to tell people there are whales in Seneca Lake.  The pirate ship is on the route that most people take through Hakone, "sails" (notice the folded up sails on the boat) on Lake Asahi providing awesome views of Mt. Fuji, and comes complete with unconvincing and underpaid teenager (really, whatever they were paying this kid, it wasn't enough) walking around dressed as a pirate captain offering to take a picture with you.  We politely declined. The pirate ship ride was free with our Hakone free pass (notice a pattern here?)

Once the pirate ship ride had taken us to the other side of the lake, we rushed past every single other person on that boat up at least 4 stories worth of stairs (there was an escalator, but I'm boycotting escalators right now) to be first in line for the next mode of transportation/adventure.

Gondola!! 

There were actually three sections to this gondola ride it was so long.  The views, as you can see, were spectacular.

 

No, not that one!

Ahhhh.  Fuji-san.  We will meet someday.

And guess how much this little ride in the clouds cost us?  Zero dollars yen.  That's right, covered by the Hakone Free Pass. 

Since the trip was in three sections, we had to switch to a new cable car twice.  At one of the stations, you're able to go out and explore the mountain area where the hot springs are.  Well, you're sort of able to walk near it.  It was all roped off and it really wasn't all that exciting.

There are the heavy sleepers at the hot springs with all the steam rising out of the ground behind them.  Noticed the slightly pained looks on their faces?  Thats because it smelled soooo bad.  Once the steam really got going we got out of there.  Fast. 

While we were there though we had to try the eggs boiled in the sulfurous water - they turn black!  I am not sure why we had to do this.  Wait, I remember.  Jeff insisted.  And in fact was so excited he ran ahead of us to buy them.

There's my black egg.  Of course, we were in for a BIG disappointment when we peeled them and they looked and tasted exactly the same as  a regular egg.

We're not sure why they boil eggs in the sulfur water, but all the tourists buy them and eat them anyways.  I think the man who put pirate ships in the lake had his hand in this. Michael saw through the black egg scam from the beginning, and was very proud that he hadn't bought into it like the rest of us. 

After the last section of our gondola ride, it was off to our next (free - thank you, Hakone Free Pass!) mode of transportation/adventure.

Funicular!  

Ok, I know this just looks like regular train tracks, but I promise, it was on like a 30 degree incline!

(This was far less adventure and far more mode of transportation.)

When we got to the bottom of the funicular, it was way past time for food, but being in a tourist town, off season, there were very limited options.  We managed to find a place that had six meal choices: two Japanese dishes, one Mexican dish, one Thai dish, and one that I can't remember now.  So strange. That not being enough, we looked for a little something to top off the tank.

These tasted about as appetizing as Michael is making them look.  Eeew.

After a long day of exploring an area essentially known for it's ridiculous forms of transportation, we were in the mood to relax.  Fortunately, Hakone is also known for its ridiculous onsen.  Ok, most onsen here (and everywhere else for that matter) are not ridiculous, but the one we chose was... interesting.

We went to a "resort onsen" called Yunessun that had not only the traditional Japanese hot springs baths, but also themed spas and an amusement park style onsen area for families (where bathing suits were required).  In addition to a Roman bath and a kids area complete with water-slide, there was a chocolate bath, a coffee bath, a sake bath, a green tea bath, a dead sea bath (with high levels of salt - you do float!), et cetera, et cetera.  We didn't bring our cameras to take pictures of the bathing-suit ones, although apparently this is totally kosher, and for obvious reasons we couldn't take pictures of the traditional baths (For an idea of what an onsen - the bathing part - is like, see here).  I can assure you, however, a good time was had by all.

For the trip home, we decided to spring for the extra expense of taking the RomanceCar (yes, really what it's called) rather than the regular commuter train.  Let me tell you, spend the 850 yen!  We rode home in comfort, each enjoying a snack and a chu-hi in our own chair.  The chairs even swiveled so we could all face each other. 

Truly a fun-filled day in Hakone.  I don't think anyone would need to stay for two days, unless maybe the weather is really nice and you can go hiking (hmm, hiking in Hakone then onsen - what do you think Jeff?), but we managed to fit in everything on the typical route (while not following it the right way) in one day. 

Best part:  Gondola ride
Most ridiculous part: The wine pouring "event" at the onsen.   They did a "presentation" and poured a bottle of wine into the spa as greedy cupped hands tried to snag some before it hit the water. (We actually witnessed one child lick the bath water after the wine had already entered it.  Gross.)  
Game ball goes to: Hakone Free Pass

Mata ne,
Melissa

Big Buddha

The last few days have not been all that exciting in the lives of the extended honeymooners.  Unless, like us, you find locating a new library to study in exciting.  We've also cooked several meals at home, and worked out a bunch.  Not exactly happenings worthy of a post, I know. Lucky for you, I am a delinquent and still have one more picture to report on from Michael and Sara's visit. 

Photo #6

Yes, Mom (and Cindy), this was taken in Kamakura at the Daibutsu, or Big Buddha, as we affectionately refer to him.  At a commanding 13.35 meters tall this is not the biggest Buddha in Japan, or the only one known as Daibutsu, which literally means "large Buddha."  He is among the oldest, having been built about 1252 entirely out of bronze. Originally, the statue was housed inside a wooden temple, but the original temple was destroyed (the information at the temple site said it happened twice!) by a tsunami. 

AND, for only twenty yen (that's like twenty cents!) you can actually go inside the big Buddha.  Of course, we chose to do so.  How many of you can say you've been in the belly of a Buddha? We did take pictures inside, but it was dark and looked like what you'd guess the inside of a statue looks like.  We did have our fun taking pictures in front of the big Buddha before going inside him.

Doesn't look so big there, does he?  It should be noted that people - many of them, in fact - are actually there to pray, too.  They place an offering (usually pocket change) in the money-collector-thing right in front of the altar, or in this case, Buddha, and clap twice, bow, and pray.  Or something like that. 

Interestingly, the travel guides we consulted all mentioned the purple potato (it's common in Japan and similar to a sweet potato) ice cream available at the shop at the entrance to the shrine.  We were so intrigued we had to give it a try. 

Just as you'd expect from purple potato ice cream, it tasted like a potato.  It wasn't bad exactly, just not what I am used to.  Somewhere in the world right now there is a Japanese girl trying peanut butter ice cream for the first time having the same exact response. 

Mmmmm.  I could really go for a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup right now. 

After our fun with the Big Buddha, Jeff led us on an expedition through a bamboo forest.  Yeah, for real. 

Doesn't that backpack make him look like kindergartner?  It is sooo big.   I bet he could pack every single item of clothing he brought to Japan in that thing.  Of course, that's not saying much, since he brought three outfits. 

After emerging from the woods, I decided to give the purple potato desserts one more shot with a filled doughnut hole.  It was quite good actually, with cinnamon and sugar topping!

After our half-day excursion, we decided to go for a full day trip to the onsen in Hakone.  It was an onsen experience like none other.  More to come...

Mata ne,
Melissa

Onsen Adventure

We got home late yesterday from our first venture outside the city of Tokyo.  We went to the Kinugawa onsen area, which is known for it's hot springs baths.  On our way we stopped in this little town for lunch and were amazed to find a vegan organic lunch place. 

On the left is the set meal: miso soup, a rice and beans thing, a squash and zucchini thing, and a root vegetable thing (purple looking stuff in the dish). Oishii!

On the right is Jeff demonstrating his expert chopstick skills.



Of course when saw they had oatmeal cookies we had to grab one to enjoy on the train!





When we got to Kinugawa, we went to our hotel/spa to check in and begin the relaxation.  I'm pretty sure there was only one other room in the hotel booked because all the staff was VERY hospitable and attentive.  One of the desk people led us to our room.  A little bit different than a western-style hotel room, huh?  

First we went to the "public bath" which isn't exactly public since you have to be a guest at the hotel to use it.  It's really like an open room with a hot tub and little stations where you sit and shower.  For those to whom a communal shower doesn't sound appealing, I was pleased to discover that the bath was empty.  Since there was no one else there, I was able to snap a few pictures:

It's a bit steamy in there! The left is the really really hot hot tub and the right is the little station with stool and bucket where one washes ones.  There is a hose with showerhead attached for those of us more accustomed to such things.

After washing up it was time for dinner.  In ryokan hotels you often find dinner and breakfast included in the price and served right in your room.  Not wanting to miss out on the local customs, Jeff and I were excited to see what this would include.  First we got dressed up in the kimono supplied in our room

 and poured ourselves a glass of wine/beer.

Then two very nice ladies that were very impressed with Jeff's Japanese skills came in and started filling our table with plate after plate of traditional Japanese foods.  It was quite the spread!

When dinner was all finished, the ladies came in and cleaned up after us (quite a chore as I had struggled a bit with the crab and sent pieces flying about the room!) and then two men came and got out the futons and made our beds while we ate dessert.  A girl could get used to this kind of treatment!
 My germaphobic friends will be pleased to hear that the cover the duvet with what looks like a fitted sheet so that no part of the duvet actually touches your skin - very important.  I watched those 20/20 exposés!

After dinner it was time for the ultimate relazation in our own private hot tub with a view overlooking the city. mmmmm I'm warm and cozy just thinking about it.

The next morning we were woken up bright and early by the same men who came to take away the futon beds.  After that we were treated to a traditional Japanese breakfast, complete with rice, soup and grilled fish! 

Not exactly the way I'm used to starting my day, but it sure did fill me up - for the next part of our adventure (coming soon).  Until then...

Mata ne,
Melissa