Hakone Ahoy!

The last big adventure we had with Jeff's brother and sister, Michael and Sara, was a trip out of Tokyo to Hakone, a town known for it's beautiful landscape and onsen.  We got up bright and early to get on the train for our almost 2 hour trip out there so we could have a full day to enjoy ourselves and take in the sights.  By far the best deal is to get the Hakone Free Pass in Shinjuku (good for two days even though we only used it for one) which includes transportation to the area, several unusual forms of transportation within the area, and discounts on attractions within Hakone for 5000 yen.

We took the regular Odakyu commuter train for the long trip out to Odawara in the morning.  My three companions slept the entire way - essentially from the moment the train started moving until the moment I informed then our stop was coming up.  This was no comfy express train either.  It was the bare bones, florescent lighting, sideways facing bench, commuter train.  They must be heavy sleepers in that family.  By the time we got to Hakone they were well rested and ready for adventure.  I immediately got myself a coffee. 

Being somewhat close to Tokyo, Hakone is quite a popular tourist spot, and apparently there is a set route which people often take which maximizes the fun stuff they can do. Trendsetters that we are, we decided not to follow this route.  Instead we got on a bus (which was free thanks to the Free Pass!) for a roller-coaster ride to our first stop.

Now I enjoy roller-coasters, and have been known to drag people around for entire days begging them "just once more!" but this 40 minute ride was a bit much even for me.  I'd liken it to being driven around the Bershires, with steep grades and hairpin turns galore, by a fourteen year old who thinks he's playing Mario Cart for Wii.  Our bus driver was apparently unaware that there is something in between speedy acceleration and slamming on the break.  We fortunately made it safely to our next mode of transportation/adventure.

A freaking pirate ship!

(Hey, move lady, you're messing up my picture!)

I am not sure who decided that a pirate ship was just what this small, inland lake in Japan needed, but they are probably related to the person who thought it would be fun to tell people there are whales in Seneca Lake.  The pirate ship is on the route that most people take through Hakone, "sails" (notice the folded up sails on the boat) on Lake Asahi providing awesome views of Mt. Fuji, and comes complete with unconvincing and underpaid teenager (really, whatever they were paying this kid, it wasn't enough) walking around dressed as a pirate captain offering to take a picture with you.  We politely declined. The pirate ship ride was free with our Hakone free pass (notice a pattern here?)

Once the pirate ship ride had taken us to the other side of the lake, we rushed past every single other person on that boat up at least 4 stories worth of stairs (there was an escalator, but I'm boycotting escalators right now) to be first in line for the next mode of transportation/adventure.

Gondola!! 

There were actually three sections to this gondola ride it was so long.  The views, as you can see, were spectacular.

 

No, not that one!

Ahhhh.  Fuji-san.  We will meet someday.

And guess how much this little ride in the clouds cost us?  Zero dollars yen.  That's right, covered by the Hakone Free Pass. 

Since the trip was in three sections, we had to switch to a new cable car twice.  At one of the stations, you're able to go out and explore the mountain area where the hot springs are.  Well, you're sort of able to walk near it.  It was all roped off and it really wasn't all that exciting.

There are the heavy sleepers at the hot springs with all the steam rising out of the ground behind them.  Noticed the slightly pained looks on their faces?  Thats because it smelled soooo bad.  Once the steam really got going we got out of there.  Fast. 

While we were there though we had to try the eggs boiled in the sulfurous water - they turn black!  I am not sure why we had to do this.  Wait, I remember.  Jeff insisted.  And in fact was so excited he ran ahead of us to buy them.

There's my black egg.  Of course, we were in for a BIG disappointment when we peeled them and they looked and tasted exactly the same as  a regular egg.

We're not sure why they boil eggs in the sulfur water, but all the tourists buy them and eat them anyways.  I think the man who put pirate ships in the lake had his hand in this. Michael saw through the black egg scam from the beginning, and was very proud that he hadn't bought into it like the rest of us. 

After the last section of our gondola ride, it was off to our next (free - thank you, Hakone Free Pass!) mode of transportation/adventure.

Funicular!  

Ok, I know this just looks like regular train tracks, but I promise, it was on like a 30 degree incline!

(This was far less adventure and far more mode of transportation.)

When we got to the bottom of the funicular, it was way past time for food, but being in a tourist town, off season, there were very limited options.  We managed to find a place that had six meal choices: two Japanese dishes, one Mexican dish, one Thai dish, and one that I can't remember now.  So strange. That not being enough, we looked for a little something to top off the tank.

These tasted about as appetizing as Michael is making them look.  Eeew.

After a long day of exploring an area essentially known for it's ridiculous forms of transportation, we were in the mood to relax.  Fortunately, Hakone is also known for its ridiculous onsen.  Ok, most onsen here (and everywhere else for that matter) are not ridiculous, but the one we chose was... interesting.

We went to a "resort onsen" called Yunessun that had not only the traditional Japanese hot springs baths, but also themed spas and an amusement park style onsen area for families (where bathing suits were required).  In addition to a Roman bath and a kids area complete with water-slide, there was a chocolate bath, a coffee bath, a sake bath, a green tea bath, a dead sea bath (with high levels of salt - you do float!), et cetera, et cetera.  We didn't bring our cameras to take pictures of the bathing-suit ones, although apparently this is totally kosher, and for obvious reasons we couldn't take pictures of the traditional baths (For an idea of what an onsen - the bathing part - is like, see here).  I can assure you, however, a good time was had by all.

For the trip home, we decided to spring for the extra expense of taking the RomanceCar (yes, really what it's called) rather than the regular commuter train.  Let me tell you, spend the 850 yen!  We rode home in comfort, each enjoying a snack and a chu-hi in our own chair.  The chairs even swiveled so we could all face each other. 

Truly a fun-filled day in Hakone.  I don't think anyone would need to stay for two days, unless maybe the weather is really nice and you can go hiking (hmm, hiking in Hakone then onsen - what do you think Jeff?), but we managed to fit in everything on the typical route (while not following it the right way) in one day. 

Best part:  Gondola ride
Most ridiculous part: The wine pouring "event" at the onsen.   They did a "presentation" and poured a bottle of wine into the spa as greedy cupped hands tried to snag some before it hit the water. (We actually witnessed one child lick the bath water after the wine had already entered it.  Gross.)  
Game ball goes to: Hakone Free Pass

Mata ne,
Melissa